How to Lay Artificial Grass
STEP ONE: EXCAVATION
The existing area needs to be removed and for our installations we go 75mm below to provide a decent depth of hardcore base. If the area is already low then a build up will be required to get to the correct levels.
STEP TWO: EDGING THE AREA
It’s now time to add the edging to allow fixing of the grass later on. On area such as an existing patio and brick wall, we recommend using a rapid cement which sets quicker than traditional cement and provides a strong plinth to glue to. You can also use a treated timber that is 75mm x 50mm and install this sitting between 10-20mm below an area such as patio. The heights depend on which pile height is being used in the grass.
STEP THREE: LAYING THE BASE
We can start to bring in the scalping MOT base to spread over the area. We rake this around making sure it is level with the edging installed previously. Once complete we compact the area a minimum of 2 times to ensure it is strong. If there are some low spots we top up that area and compact again.
After this step we can also add a thin layer of grit sand to give a better surface to lay the grass. We level this out using rakes and then compact. We can now level it out properly using a float and flat rakes to obtain the appropriate levels.
STEP FOUR: LAYING THE GRASS
We lay a geotextile membrane layer on top of the sand to prevent weed growth securing with galvanized nails.
We then roll out the grass ensuring all edges over lap the area. With all the grass rolled out, it is recommended to leave it for an hour or so to enable it to climatise or settle depending on weather conditions.
If joining 2 or more pieces together, fold back the edges which are to be joined and counting in 4 stiches carefully cut between the stitch lines. Bring the 2 pieces together to test the joint. You are looking for a consistent 1-2mm gap between the 2 pieces and an invisible seem when looked at from afar or for more complex cuts such as on a curve or along the edge of a patio take your time to ensure its a tight cut and remember to change the blade when the cutting is getting tough!
When we are happy with the joint, we fold back the edges and roll out the jointing tape between the joints, shiny side down and apply the adhesive down the length of the joint or on joins where curves are needed. Next we carefully work our way along the joint folding the grass back on to the tape. Once all the grass is folded down we compress the joint by walking along it a few times.
STEP FIVE: APPLY TOP SAND
To help stabalise and increase the durability of the grass, we recommend it to be filled with an even layer of kiln dry sand approximately at a rate of 5kg per square meter and once done we can finally brush up the grass in order to stimulate the pile and enable the sand to settle in. A mechanical brush make light work of this but a stiff broom would do the same job. This allows us to reveal the final result!
